The roof racks on the Subaru Forester are not spaced as wide as I'd like, so I built a rear T bar rack to provide greater support for the kayak. The T bar is galvanized square tubing welded to a tow bar insert. It also acts as a loading bar, such that the kayak can be loaded and unloaded single handed.
Since the above photo, I've added some small 'wings' to prevent the kayak from sliding off sideways when loading/unloading (see below photo). Loading the kayak is a process of lifting the front onto the rack and then sliding it forward by holding the back of the kayak. Then the rear is lifted and the kayak pushed the full way onto the racks.
Monday, September 12, 2016
Sunday, September 11, 2016
DIY Kayak Cart in action
The kayak cart has been finished for a while, but has only just been tested out. It worked well and is fixed in place with a strap. With some soft rubber strips on the contact points I don't think it would move around, but the strap ensures the kayak doesn't bounce around when being pulled along.
Sunday, February 7, 2016
Glenelg North Trip
Took the kayak out to Glenelg North Beach this morning for a nice paddle with the kids. The weather was really nice and we stopped to have a swim and test re-entering the kayak from deep water. We managed to get out of the kayak fairly easily without tipping it. Getting in required a bit more effort, but the kayak was really stable and was able to get back in. A rope ladder or foot hold would make it easier though. Another trip I'd like to try to capsize the kayak and then bail and re-board.
Saturday, February 6, 2016
Tackle Box ... Rod Holders Installed
I made up the other two rod holders from PVC pipe and added a collar to help keep them in the right place. I have three layers of plywood that will secure the holders, and the middle layer has a slightly large hole to accommodate the collar. The holes for the top and bottom layers are small enough that the collar won't pass through them, securing the holder in position (in addition to the epoxy).
I used some epoxy to glue the rod holders to the box. The bottom two layers of ply still need to be trimmed to size.
Test fit in the kayak behind the front seat. It wouldn't want to be any wider otherwise it would encroach on the leg space of the rear passenger.
I used some epoxy to glue the rod holders to the box. The bottom two layers of ply still need to be trimmed to size.
Test fit in the kayak behind the front seat. It wouldn't want to be any wider otherwise it would encroach on the leg space of the rear passenger.
Sunday, January 31, 2016
Tackle Box
I have a water tight box where I plan to store my wallet, phone, keys etc. so it needs to also have a spot to keep that close and handy. The design I ended up with has a frame to fit the water tight box and then on top of that another box to hold the tackle containers. I'll attach rod holders to the side of the top box.
The bottom frame around the water tight box.
The top box to hold the tackle containers, sitting on a top that will house the rod holders.
Marking out the box joints for the top box.
Cutting the joins.
Chiseling out the waste.
Trial fitting before gluing.
Here the lid has been trimmed to size. The side flaps are where the rod holders will be located.
All glued up. The lid is temporarily screwed on, whilst I figured out how best to attach the rod holders.
This is where the PVC rod holders will go. I'll add some extra layers of marine ply under the flaps to strengthen then holders.
On top of this box that holds the tackle containers will be a lid made out of a plastic chopping board. This will double as a bait board and I'll mount a bait knife somewhere handy.
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